2009 - A Travel Review

2009 is done. And what a year it's been, for me. Whenever the new year comes, I always take stock of what I've done over the previous year. And this year, I decided to look back over 2009 and define my top 10 travel destinations. I've been a lot of places this past year, and had many wonderful memories. I've been to more than 10 places of course, but here is a list of my favourites this year (in chronological order)...

1) Sydney, Australia

This was my first time in Australia. I actually arrived in Sydney in 2008, but stayed there over the New Year, making it my first location in 2009. Sydney surprised me. I often hear that it's a beautiful city, and a great destination, but I still kinda doubted it. But when I was there, I was impressed with the place. The harbour, the nightlife, the people - all wonderful. I am considering returning in a few months.

2) Melbourne, Australia

I was in Melbourne when it was my birthday. Of the two cities I visited in Australia, I preferred Melbourne. It has a thriving artists community, and the city center is beautiful. If I was to ever live in Australia, I think it would be in Melbourne.

3) Chiang Mai, Thailand

Chiang Mai is the second largest city in Thailand, and certainly one worth visiting. The city has a slower pace and it's own style, and feels quite different from Bangkok. I was there during the annual umbrella festival, which was an amazing event.

4) Hong Kong, China

I have always had a soft spot for Hong Kong, and have spent more time in this city than any other place in Asia. I feel very comfortable in Hong Kong, and have many friends that I consider important. I ended up 'living' in Hong Kong for a total of 6 months this past year, and got to know it even better than before. I've learned that it's very expensive, and difficult to live in, if you are not connected to the right people. But, it's still a highlight of my year.

5) Xitang, China

When I was in Shanghai in April/May, I visited this small village a few hours away. It is a beautiful little town with a small canal system. It's overrun with tourists now, since it was featured in the movie Mission Impossible III, but it's still very beautiful and worth the short trip.

6) Beijing, China


I kind of knew in advance that I'd like Beijing, before I arrived there. It has all the things I like in a city: historical monuments, thriving art community, non-stop culture and great shopping. Seeing the Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square and the Great Wall is something that everyone should do in their lifetime.

7) Bali, Indonesia

Bali is certainly the most beautiful part of Indonesia. I've been 4 times now, I think. And each time, it's better, as I find nicer Villas to stay in, and better beaches to visit. Bali has a recognizable style all it's own, and there are so many amazing properties and restaurants/clubs. Well worth seeing, again and again.

8) Penang, Malaysia

Penang has so much going for it, and is among the best little places I've visited in Asia. Since it is a World Heritage site, it's protected, and much of it's history is still very visible. I've shot a lot of great photos around the island, and would recommend visiting it to any photographer. And it's one of few places in Malaysia that you can get pork. =)

9) Siem Reap, Cambodia

Siem Reap, and Cambodia in general, is amazing. Of course, the highlight of Siem Reap are the historical Angkor Wat temples. I spent a week there in September, visiting as much of the park as I could. It was well worth it, as I've amassed a huge library of great images from this park that may one day be closed to visitors.

10, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

I quite like the city of Ho Chi Minh (or Saigon as it's often known). The monuments to the Vietnamese War are interesting, the food is great (but not the coffee), the shopping is cheap, and the people are very nice. I think Vietnam's time for a tourism boom has come. I'd certainly like to return, and to visit more areas in the country.

Christmas in Asia

This is my second Christmas in Asia since I moved here in Oct 2008. Last Christmas, I was in the island paradise of Bali. This year I will be in the crowded city of Bangkok. And much to my surprise, Christmas is celebrated everywhere.

I guess I thought that Christmas was a western thing, or at least a Christian thing. But it's simply not the case. It's impossible to walk down the streets or in a mall in Bangkok, without seeing Christmas decorations and hearing carols. Christmas movies are on TV (Grinch, Fred Claus, Jingle All The Way, Miracle on 34th, etc.), and fake snow is everywhere.

Growing up in Canada, I always thought of Christmas as a religious event that became a commercial event. But it still had the Christian base behind it. People still understood what Christmas meant (the birth of Christ, etc). The concept of Santa Claus and the myth of the flying reindeer was secondary at first, but then became the primary focus of the period. The Christmas season became a huge stressful event that people saved up for all year. And there were images and totems that became associated with Christmas, such as the decorated tree, the snowman and candy canes.

But here in Southern Asia, where Christianity is uncommon, and snow is impossible, Christmas is as prevalent as it is back in Canada. However, the religious aspect of Christmas is removed in most cases. What's left of Christmas are the images of a cold weather festival. That's what confuses me the most. Is that what Christmas is about - snow? And if so, why is it celebrated here?

I was in Ho Chi Minh City last week, because my Visa for Thailand expired, and I had to exit the country to obtain a new one. While I was there, I was amazed at the volume of Christmas decorations covering the city. And it seemed quite strange to me, to see all the Christmas trees and the Santa Claus statues everywhere. Young families were dressing their children in festive clothing, and placing them in front of the displays to be photographed. I believe that 99% of the people in Vietnam have never seen snow, but at Christmas time, the city is covered in the fake stuff.

One more thing that Christmas means to me, is spending time with family and other loved ones. My family is only a few people now, and I miss them all. My friends are many, and I cherish the time I have with them, and the happiness they bring to my life. I wish all a Happy Festive Season (as they call it here), snow or no snow.

On to Year Two...

Wow. It's been a year since I left Canada. Where has the year gone? Honestly, it feels like I just left. Maybe that's because we live in such a connected world now, that I am in daily touch with friends back home, so I don't feel the homesickness that would be normal for such a long time away.

I look back on what my plans were, when I left Vancouver at the end of October 2008. I had dreams of having a successful life in Asia, with a fulfilling career and comfortable home (none of which I have yet). But a lot has changed since then. Is it because I've become more aware of the reality of living abroad? Have I grown and changed a lot? Maybe some of each.

Sure, it's been a great year. I've seen much of the SE Asia that was new to me, and I've met many wonderful people who have become great friends. And I've spent a lot of money. It's not easy to live without a steady income when you are traveling. Hotels and restaurants and flights cost a lot. Over the last 12 months, I've been to 12 countries and taken 30 flights. But I have no regrets. I wouldn't turn down the opportunity to do this again. I would do some things a little differently, but I would still do this.

Currently, I am residing in Bangkok. Thailand is pretty cheap to live in, even when paying the tourist prices. I rent a small apartment in the Silom area of Bangkok. It's nothing fancy, but it offers all I need in an apartment. It's close to most of the things I need on a daily basis (food, coffee, laundry, liquor). There is a professional photo lab nearby, and a post office next to me. What more do I need?

Bangkok will be my home for the next little while, while I sort things out. I am shooting lots, and still enjoying my time in Thailand. I have to figure out some issues with Visas still, but I think I can work that out. I still don't have any solid plans to return to Canada just yet. I don't think it's time.

Bangkoking

I like Bangkok. Always have. And for many people who've never been here, they wonder why. And it's kind of hard to explain why, actually. Even local Thais wonder what the tourists see in the place. It's certainly not for the traffic gridlock, or the dirty pavements, or the taxi scams. I like it for the great street food, the genuinely nice people, cultural heritage, non-stop market shopping, and the luxurious cinemas.

Over the past 3 weeks or so, I've had an opportunity to see what it is like to live in this sprawling city. All the previous times I've been here, I always had a ticket out - a deadline. It made me cram as much in to my days as possible, so that I had a good time here. Now, since I am not in any hurry to leave, my days have been much more relaxed. I know that if I don't get to that market or shrine today, there is always tomorrow.

Since I've been here, I've tried to revisit many of the places that I've been to in the past, so that I can enjoy them with a slower pace. So, I've been back to the Grand Palace, many Wats, the weekend market, etc. It's been great to spend more time at these places, and not worry so much about getting to the next place so I don't miss anything.

Another thing that I've done since I got here, was to get another tattoo. I've been thinking about getting a second one, for a long time. It's commonly said that once you get your first tattoo, you will always want more. That is how it was for me, at least. But the challenge in getting a tattoo is determining just what to get. The placement on the body is secondary to the design. Actually. in my mind, it hardly matters where you get it. It's the design that is key.

I long assumed that while I am in Thailand, I would get a tattoo that was representative of the country. So, for weeks, months, years, I was flipping through tattoo sample books, and just never settled on anything I liked. Most of the Thai characters looked angry. It just wasn't me. I am more the silent gentle type. So, I thought long and hard about what it is that I wanted to draw into my skin for all time. One idea that kept coming back to me, was Haida designs. I've always liked the style and boldness of the designs. I don't profess to understand what it all means, but they speak to me, nonetheless.

So, I settled on a Haida sun design. The one that I chose was actually quite large, and very detailed. What I ended up getting was the center part of the design. But the reasoning for not getting the whole artwork was purely financial. I paid 5500 baht for this one, and it would have been 15000 baht for the entire design. However, I am still pretty happy with it. This tattoo was done the 'normal' way, with electric needles. It hurts a little, but you get used to it. I've had this for about 4 days now, and it's starting to peel, so it will fade down to the final colours in a short while.


I am still seeking work. I've widened my net now, and I am looking for positions in Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Singapore, Hong Kong and Indonesia. I've been sending in applications for lots of stuff, but still no bites. But, being the confident 'glass half full' type of guy, I know something will turn up.

Final Days in Cambodia

I am now back in Bangkok - still one of my favourite cities in Asia. The final days in Siem Reap were very enjoyable. And the pictures I've gathered will be a testament to the memories I've had.

On Day 6, Pilu and I went to one of the oldest temples known to exist in Cambodia, called Beng Mealea. It is mostly untouched from the way it was discovered, other than some walkways and safety supports put in. Most of the walls have tumbled down, and what remains upright are largely covered with strangler fig trees. The whole temple is shaded from the surrounding forest, and most of the stones are green with moss. Because this temple is about 90 minutes drive from Siem Reap, it is not that popular with tourists. We saw only a handful of Japanese tour groups, and pretty much had the place to ourselves.
On Day 7, we took a tour of Tonle Sap lake by boat. This lake is the heartbeat of Cambodia and is the largest fresh water lake in SE Asia. The lake changes in size depending on the season. During the wet season (May - Oct), the Mekong River rises rapidly, and flows into the lake. The lake can swell from 2m to 10m in depth, and increase in size from 2500 sq km to over 13000 sq km. During the dry season (Nov - Apr), the flow changes, and the lake drains out to the Mekong River, lowering the lake and reducing the fishing.

There are entire villages that thrive on the lake, complete with restaurants, schools, churches and livestock pens. As the lake changes size, the villages move along with it, to follow where the fish are. When we were touring the lake, there were countless women with small children begging for money wherever tourists would be. It was kind of sad to watch, because there were so many. It was strong evidence of the poverty in Cambodia and how vital tourism is to the country.


So, now I am back in Thailand. I will spend the next month or so in a final push to locate some work. I will be concentrating my job hunt on Thailand, Singapore and Malaysia. And of course, I will be taking photos of Bangkok with every chance I get.

Angkor What?

Day 5.
I have to say, I've been blessed with perfect weather since I've been here. It rained a little bit on the first morning, but not since. I was expecting rain every day. It's hot and sunny with a few white puffy clouds - perfect for photos.
Yesterday, I hit the Big 3 temples. They are the ones that tourists go to for a 'must see' tour if they only have one day. They include the eponymous Angkor Wat, the tree covered Ta Prohm, and the iconic Bayon. When people see photos of this region of the world, it's likely that they would see images of one of these 3 sites. They are the most popular, and the most overrun with busloads of tourists.
Angkor Wat
Ta Prohm

This time, I hired a tuk tuk to get me back and forth. Since I've been there before, I didn't really need a guide. Besides, this time it was purely a photographic journey. I was on the hunt for images for my stock portfolio. That means, I would plant myself in one spot, patiently waiting for the crowds to disperse for that split second for a photo. Despite the crowds, I still managed to get lots of photos with no tourists. I think it was because of the time of day I was in the temples. Whatever the reason, I am happy with the results.
Bayon
Bayon

Today, I visited another set of temples to the southeast of Siem Reap, called the Roluos Group. It was 3 temples dating back to the 9th century, and is in an area that was once the capitol of Angkor. These temples were pretty much tourist free. But they are all quite small, in comparison to the Big 3. The best of the 3 temples was one called Bakong. It is very well preserved, considering the age. The other 2 temples were very small, and largely destroyed from age and weathering.
Bakong

When I was leaving Bakong, I decided I wanted something to drink. When I made this somewhat clear, I was surrounded by young girls, all trying to sell me a beer. They were all yelling to get my attention - all competing for a $2 sale. They were ravenous. It was hard to figure out who deserved the coveted sale. One young girl - she must have been 12 - suggested they compete for my $2 by playing a game amongst themselves. They gathered in a circle and started playing a game that seemed like rock/paper/scissors to me. They were got louder as the game progressed. Eventually, a winner was determined, and the losing girls sulked away. With the beer finally in my possession, I opened it, and it sprayed everywhere. I guess it was shaken during the excitement of the competition.

Tomorrow, I am traveling far afield from Siem Reap. I am going to a temple that is also overgrown with forestation. It's known to be popular amongst photographers. So, I am looking forward to it.

Reap-ing the rewards of Cambodia

It's day 3 in Siem Reap, Cambodia. I've really enjoyed my time here so far. And I am learning a lot. For instance, I learned that the name "Siem Reap" means "Siam Defeated" - a reference to the ongoing feud with Thailand next door. Though, the name is somewhat ambitious, since Thailand has conquered this part of Asia many times over. Even today, I read in the paper about border and temple disputes between the neighbouring countries.

I spent my first full day, exploring a wide range of different temples and Wats around the region. I hired a local guide name Pilu - an intelligent young man that speaks English very well (not to mention Khmer and Mandarin). I gave pretty loose instructions to my guide: I am here to take photos - show me the photogenic parts of Cambodia. He told me that he enjoyed having me as a client, because he didn't have to talk so much, explaining the history of the temples. I am somewhat interested in the history, but not that much. I am mostly concerned that I get the name of the temple spelled correctly.


So, on day one, I visited 7 temples. I could list them all here, but even I can't make sense of all the names. Lots of temples have similar sounding names, that only locals can tell apart. I thoroughly enjoyed each and every temple for different reasons. What I found particularly interesting, from a photographic point of view was that all 7 temples are seldom visited by the hordes of tourists that you see in the main Big 3 temples.


On day two, we took a longer journey into one of the local mountains, called Phnom Kulea. The attractions on this mountain are plenty. There is a Buddhist temple (or is that Pagoda?) carved into the mountain side. There is a famous river where there is reportedly more than 1000 lingas carved into the bedrock in the flowing river. (For those who don't know: Linga = penis). Much to my disappointment, we didn't see many of them, because the water was too high, thanks to the rainy season. Oh well, you see one carved penis, you've seen them all, right?

The highlight of the mountain though, was the waterfall. This is a very popular leisure site amongst the Khmer people, and understandably so. It's a very long drive up a treacherous road, but very much worth the trip. The waterfall has many levels, with some that are safe for swimming in. It was a nice day, and not at all what I've assumed I would see in Cambodia.



Over the next few days, I will be spending more time visiting Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and Bayan (those are the Big 3). They are bound to be overrun by tourists, but I will make the best of it.

Onward...

It's my last day in Hong Kong. After more than 3 months here (with a few side trips), I've decided that I have to move on. I've been looking for work here, but have had very little success in my search. I know I will miss Hong Kong, and especially the many friends I have here. I wish that things were different, and that I was able to find permanent work here, but that just wasn't to be.

So, today I have a flight south to Bangkok. I've decided to reposition myself in Thailand for a month or so while continuing my job hunt. Thailand is considerably cheaper to live in than Hong Kong. And when you don't have a steady income, that's a big factor to consider. I will continue to hunt for jobs in Hong Kong, while I am in Bangkok. But I think the best chances for me lay in Thailand and Singapore.

But, before I settle in to Bangkok, I am going to take a side trip to Cambodia. I was in that country for a week last November, and I really enjoyed my time there. On that trip I spent time in both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. This time I will spend a whole week in Siem Reap. Siem Reap is the closest town to Angkor Wat - considered one of the wonders of the ancient world. I will be exploring the many temples of the area for the whole week. Last time I was only able to spend one day in Angkor. And considering the area is about 400 square kilometers, that is not nearly enough time. I really only saw the highlights. This time I hope to see all the hidden areas only locals see.

It will likely be raining most days when I am in Cambodia (it is the rainy season), but that won't dampen my spirits for photos. It will likely only rain for a portion of the day, so I will still be able to get some shooting in. Then, on to Bangkok!

Decision Time

It's been a month, I know. I used to write in this blog 2 or 3 times per week. But that was back when I was seeing and experiencing new things all the time. But lately, it's the same all the time. I am still here in Hong Kong of course, but I am not sure it will be for too much longer. Hong Kong is an expensive city, particularly if you don't have a job. I can't believe it's almost September. Where has this year gone?

Over the last month, I've been on a few trips. I spent a few days in Shenzhen, Penang, Bangkok and Singapore. Each time I go to those places, I wonder: should I be living there? I like Penang a lot. It's got great places to photograph. But is that enough to live there? Bangkok - well, it's Bangkok. It's always been one of my favourite places in Asia. And Singapore is certainly an option too. One of my friends thinks it's the best place for Westerners to live, since it is quite Western in it's own way. He called it "Asia Lite". I will need to make a decision soon, though. For the first time this year, I am also wondering if I should return to Vancouver...

Lately, I have been spending my days pouring over job postings online. I have been looking for both photography jobs and project manager jobs. I look for jobs in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Singapore, Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur. I hope something comes through soon. In the meantime, I am also trying to get some photos published through some Stock Photo agencies. I have been sending sample work to a few agencies, and getting favourable responses so far.

Last week, my good friend Terry came to visit me from Malaysia. Terry is an accomplished photographer and Photo Shop wizard. He knows more about photo editing than I ever will. I guess we're both unemployed photographers. Terry and I spent a few days being tourists in Hong Kong, and shot lots of photos. We had a great, but short visit.


The lease on my Hong Kong apartment is up in less than 3 weeks. Big decisions are coming up. Where, what, how, when? Mostly where, though.

Hong Kong Home

Hong Kong. What can I say? It's home, at least for now. I am comfortable here. Will I stay here forever? I dunno. I'd like to. But that is yet to be seen. Over the past 8 months (yes, it's been 8 months), I've been in more of a travel mode. But now, I am more in the 'find work fast' mode.

I've really enjoyed traveling around SE Asia and China. It's provided a range of experiences that have changed me and I will never forget. But now, it's time to get back to work. I can't really be as lazy forever. I hope I remember how to work.

I am not saying that I've not done anything at all. I've been shooting 10's of thousands of photos. I've shot many portfolio shots for lots of guys. I've built up my stock library. I've spent countless hours editing photos. But none of that work is paying me, and none of it is getting me a working Visa.

I spend a lot of my time now looking for work. I keep running up against walls, though. Sometimes, it's a language thing, sometimes it's a qualification thing. Sometimes it's both. But most days, I come across nothing. But I look every day, regardless. I've applied for a few jobs recently, but haven't had any responses yet. I've come to terms with the idea that I may not be able to find a photography job here, and have been applying to jobs that play to my Project Management skills. Once I get a working visa, then I can continue to pursue my photography. Well, I will always pursue my photography, but I need the job first, right?

I am comfortable here in Hong Kong. I like my little apartment, and have plenty of friends. My apartment is nestled in the hills of Central, in the SoHo district. I have a happy domestic life, and find no shortage of things to do to occupy my days. Now that is is summer, the weather in Hong Kong is very humid. Most days are hot - about +32c - and with humidity in the high 80's or 90's. I often wonder what the point is, of taking a shower before I go out. Within a few minutes of being outdoors, I am soaking wet with a mixture of sweat and humidity.

Last week, I had the opportunity to shoot an up and coming new model here in Hong Kong, named Gabe. It was a great shoot, and we were accompanied by one of the local stylists to manage the clothing on the shoot. I am happy with the results. Gabe has received favourable feedback on the photos. Hopefully, it will generate more work for both of us.

Weekend in Pee-Nang

I had a lovely weekend in Penang, Malaysia. I arrived in George Town on Friday night, and left on Monday afternoon. It was not long enough. Next time I come to Malaysia, I will definitely spend more time in this little town.

The thing that struck me about Penang, was how many old buildings were still there. Unlike many other cities in Asia, Penang is hanging on to its heritage. In 2008, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site - I suppose partly for this reason. The city of George Town has preserved much of the colonial heritage that makes it interesting. I really enjoyed exploring much of the small city on foot, and marveling in the multiculturalism. In one small area, I saw Muslim mosques, Hindu shrines, Buddhist temples and Christian churches - all within blocks of each other. I managed to find a pork lunch too - in a Swiss restaurant in the Little India area of this Muslim country.




One of the other things that surprised me about Penang, is that it is a high tech powerhouse. Many computer manufacturers have plants here, including Intel, AMD, Dell, Seagate, Western Digital, Motorola, and loads more. I had no idea that so much was made in this tiny state. And I've since learned that much of the product testing for the latest high tech gizmos is done here as well.

I shot a lot of photos of the historic areas of George Town, and I hope to return to shoot more. I can easily spend countless days photographing the many old buildings and row houses that cover every street. It's a photographers dream location.



I am back in Hong Kong for a little while again. I have some photographers to meet, friends to reconnect with, and pork to eat.

Malaysia, Truly Asia

I’ve spent the last week in Kuala Lumpur (again). I keep returning to this little city for some reason. It’s my third time here in about 6 months. I wonder what the draw is? Great food? Cheap lodging? Cute boys? (Or is that cute food, great lodging and cheap boys?) Regardless of the reasons, I found myself back here enjoying it again.

I have been here enough so that it’s not really a mystery to me anymore. I kinda know what KL has to offer, and seen most of it. Some of my friends wonder why I would bother coming here, since there is little to do. And they are right, a bit. There really isn’t a lot to do. I think the most famous thing about KL are the Pertonas Towers, which are (now) the tallest twin towers in the world. They are quite beautiful buildings, to be sure. And they look spectacular at night – partly because the smog isn’t as obvious at nighttime. I’ve never been to the observation deck of these towers (there is a sky bridge connecting them), because to me, the towers ARE the view. The surrounding area is not quite as nice to look at.

I also visited the Batu Caves when I was here this time. It was on my ‘to-do list’ for KL ever since my first visit. This time I managed to get there. The caves are a Hindu Shrine nestled in the belly of a huge cave in one of the surrounding mountains of KL. It requires a climb of 1000 steps to reach the shrine. As caves go, it was pretty impressive. As shrines go, it was pretty unimpressive. The interior of the cave was extremely large, but it’s been paved inside decades ago, and the cave walls are covered in graffiti. There were plenty of macaque monkeys and Hindu monks. Some of the monks I saw there were almost as hairy as the monkeys. The caves were pretty smelly, but ultimately, it was worth the climb.

This trip really had two purposes. The first reason was to photograph a guy I’ve known for a while – Eric. He is a 20yo student that also excels at acrobatic cheerleading (you know - throw the girls up in the air, catch them, make human pyramids, etc). He’s been photographed a number of times by local photographers, and I was glad to have him in front of my camera. Eric was a trooper during the shoot, considering he wasn’t feeling well, and had a fever the following day. I am happy with the resulting images. Look for more on my website.



The other reason I came here was to meet a successful local photographer (via Eric), named Azrul Abdullah. Azrul is a successful artist here, and regularly shoots for local and international magazines. Speaking with Azrul was entertaining and informative. He explained how the business works in KL, and how to get around the corruption of the local governments. I saw a lot of his beautiful architectural images of old buildings that no longer exist. Like many Asian cities, Kuala Lumpur is going through a building boom of sorts, and they pay little attention to heritage. Azrul has done a great job documenting many of these old structures, often just before they are demolished.

Today, I am heading to another city in Malaysia called Penang. Many of my Malaysian friends encouraged me to visit this small resort town for a few days. I am told that Penang is the “center of arts and culture” in Malaysia, and is well known to have the best food in the country. I will only be there for a few days, but I look forward to exploring it.

Beautiful Beijing

Hey all....
I know it's been a while for me to write. I tried and tried to log in to Blogger while I was in Beijing, but it was just blocked. That's one of the joys of China. Many, many websites are simply not available. Even basic ones like my site. I guess it's something you get used to. There is nothing about my Blog that says anything bad about China...so I don't know why.

Anyways, I really liked Beijing. It was my first time there, of course. And I know enough now, that the first time I am anywhere, I like it a lot. I thought that about Shanghai when I was there last year...and now that I've returned to it, I was less enamored with it. That said, I think there was a lot of polish and charm about Beijing, that I would like to return and see it again in detail.

There were a number of things that impressed me about Beijing. I think the strongest impression was just how big it is. The place is freakin HUGE! Seriously, it must be one of the largest cities I've been to, in square miles. And there is no real center of town. So everything is quite spread out, and it can take a long time to get anywhere. Another thing that impressed me was the sheer volume of monuments and amazing buildings. And since this is the capital city, there was every country's Embassy too.

Since I was only in Beijing for a short visit, I spent all of my time touring the 'must see' areas of the city. Those included the Forbidden City, Tian'an Men Square, the Hutongs, and the Great Wall. All of them were impressive - without exception. When I arrived in the Forbidden City, I had a rough idea of the scale of it, but even with advance reading, I was still surprised at how big it was. I spent a few hours there, but could have easily spent the whole day. There is a LOT to see. Though eventually, all the palaces/temples/shrines begin to look alike. It was seriously crowded too, mostly with Chinese nationals. I saw very few white people. As I was taking photos, I quickly learned that I will rarely get a shot of a part of the monument without people in it, so the people became the photo.

Tian'an Men Square was also impressive. It's very, very large. So large in fact, that you could drive tanks down it. (OK, Now I KNOW my blog will be banned in China.) I enjoyed wandering the square, and seeing all the Chinese people showing their patriotism. I had Peking Duck for lunch - I figured that it was a 'must eat' food. It was super greasy and fatty. No wonder it is so popular. After this, I went to see the Olympic venues, like the Bird's Nest Stadium and the Water Cube. The Stadium is seldom used now. Last week, they staged the first event in it since the Olympics. And that was a concert hosted by Jackie Chan. The Water Cube was closed to tourists, but that was fine, since the beauty of that building is on the outside.

On the next day, I hired a car and driver and took a long 2.5 hour drive to a portion of the Great Wall that is not popular with tourists. Since this is my first visit to the Wall, I thought it would be best to see it where it is not littered with khaki panted chubby tourists. The area I went to was virtually deserted. I saw about 6 other people there - it was perfect. The climb up to the Wall was slow and steep. It's on the top of a mountain, after all. I was quite tired and had to rest several times, as it was quite hot out, too. But getting to the top was worth the long climb up. It was a little hazy for photographs, but it was an amazing place to be. One more thing I can cross off my list of To-Do's in life.

On my final day, I toured the famous 798 Art Gallery area and some small hutongs. Hutongs are the small neighbourhoods made from skinny alleys linking courtyard homes together. Beijing is slowly knocking down whats left of these areas and replacing them with tall towers. The neighbourhood I visited was pretty touristy, though. You could tell it was designed to attract tourists. But I still enjoyed it.


Overall, my impression of Beijing was favourable. It was a huge, and very modern city. They clearly spend a lot of money taking care of it. I would like to see it again.

I am now back in Singapore for a little while. Singapore is one of those places that is hard to like. It's clean and organized (good qualities, I guess), but it just doesn't feel very Asian to me. It could be anywhere in Canada. More about it later, I guess.

Shanghai, Take II

Hello all...
So, I've been in Shanghai for about 10 days now, and I think I kinda get it. I have to admit, though, that I am not sure I like it.

The thing about Shanghai, is that it's just not ready. The city is trying very hard to be an 'international, world class city' (hence Expo 2010, etc), but to be honest, it's full of people that are not anywhere near that. I can't count how many times I've been spit on, or dodged a spit bomb since I've been here. And at the risk of sounding xenophobic, why aren't there more English speaking people here? I find myself speaking in charades or using my little translation computer a lot. I know the responsibility for speaking the local language is mine, but you'd think that in the tourist areas, there would be SOME staff that speak English.

I know that a lot of my posts here in my blog sound like a big complaint about why this city or that city is not like it is back home. I don't want this Blog to be just that. And I understand and recognize that there are significant cultural differences from country to country. But the fact of the matter is that there are some minimal world standards that should be met, regardless of where I am in the world.



So, keep that in mind, when you read about my current rants/observations about Shanghai. =)

- Construction is at a fevered pace for Expo 2010. This is Shanghai's debut as a world city, so that means they are trying to make the city ready for the millions of people they are expecting to visit. So the roads are in total chaos. The Bund, which is one of the most popular tourist areas, is completely gone. It's one big pit now, and you can't walk anywhere.

- I mentioned before, that the Metro system is modern and efficient. But what I didn't say is that the riders of the metro are far from modern or efficient. If you're unlucky enough to be on the train during rush hour, you had best be prepared to be crushed. Ordinarily, its customary to allow people to exit the train car before people enter the car. Not so, here. I've almost missed my exit a few times, because I mistakenly was too polite and didn't push my way off the train. I've since learned to put my elbows up and push my way out. If I don't, I may never get off the car.

- Some of the other oddities I've seen on the metro, and the 'regular' trains that I've been on, is that people will actually sit on the floor. They just park themselves down among the feet of others. Also, I've seen on more than one occasion, people eating food like sunflower seeds, and spitting the waste out onto the floor. Lovely.

- Their is a discernible hierarchy among street traffic. It goes like this: trucks - buses - cars - motorbikes - bicycles - oxen and other animals - people. If you're walking on the street (sidewalks included), you are expected to be vigilant for all vehicles that are coming towards you. Even crossing a street in a crosswalk is no guarantee of safety. Cars and buses will aim right for you, and you are expected to stop to let them pass. I've almost been hit many, many times by taxis here. And I am in the wrong, no matter what. It is my fault regardless. Motorbikes will drive on sidewalks if its clearer than the roads, and you are obligated to allow them to do so. If a taxi/motorbike honks their horn, that is enough legal notice. You MUST move. Pedestrians are the lowest of the low here. I wonder if it's some kind of natural cull of an already burgeoning population?

- There are a lot of vehicles here that you just won't see anywhere else. When I was in Xitang, just outside of Shanghai, I saw plenty of 3 wheeled trucks and taxis. And they were not just large motorbikes - they were large car and truck sized vehicles. They just missed a front wheel, and I am not sure why. Are tires that expensive in China? The vehicles seemed rather unstable, and look like they could be tipped over quite easily.

On Sunday, I will be heading up to Beijing for a week or so. I've been doing my research so that I can maximize the use of my time there. I know that there will be some "must-do's" when I am there, like the Great Wall and the Forbidden City. I hope to see parts of the city that are not as touristy as well. But I think that might be a bit unlikely.

Shanghai, Shanglow

Hello from Shanghai. I've been here for almost a week. I know that most of you have been expecting a blog post much sooner than today, but it's very difficult to log on to my Blog. I've learned that many sites I am used to viewing, are not accessible here in China (like my personal website, Youtube, Blogger).

I am learning a lot about Shanghai, and China in general. Before I arrived in China, I admit that I had a somewhat naive view of what I would expect when I got here. I guess I had stars in my eyes - thinking that Shanghai was the center of what is the future of the world. I think I was wrong. A bit.

Shanghai is indeed an interesting city. I believe that Shanghai likes to refer to itself as an 'International, World Class City'. After having been here for a week, I am not so sure. I think it has a lot of growing up, before it can join the ranks of London, Paris, New York...or even Vancouver. I am not qualified to state what it is that it needs to meet that esoteric criteria, but I can just tell it doesn't possess it, yet.

Granted, one of the things that makes Shanghai exciting, is that is it constantly changing. This city is under perpetual construction. It seems that every major road is dug up these days. Shanghai is the host of the World Expo in 2010, so the preparations are in full force. I am sure they will put on a great Expo, but for now, the city is in total chaos.

A few days ago, I visited the number one tourist attraction in Shanghai - The Yuyuan Gardens. I didn't do a lot of research in advance, because I wanted it to be fresh when I got there. But I was pretty disappointed, because I was expecting to see an area of Shanghai that was authentic and historical. What I saw was a recreation of a Shanghai of the past. The Gardens and village portend to be a village from the 1500's. But what I learned was that it was destroyed in the 1800's opium wars, and recreated in the 1950's as a tourist attraction. So it was very commercial, complete with a McDonald's and Starbucks in the middle of the village (no, I didn't go in).

Some other recent observations about Shanghai:

- This city loves to shop. And there are a lot of great malls here. No bargains to be had, though. I have not bought anything yet, because I have not seen anything here that I haven't seen elsewhere. There are 5 or 6 Best Buy stores here, too. I went in to one today, and was impressed. The product range was extensive. They even carried a lot of seriously expensive Nikon lenses that most high end camera stores in Canada would not stock.

- The Metro is cheap, fast and efficient. I've had no problem working out my way around the city. There are about 8 or 9 train lines, and they keep building more (see above re: perpetual construction).

- The city is huge. There are about 18 million people here. My initial observation is that about 2 million of them are...um....normal regular world citizens. And the other 16 Million people are completely unaware that there is a world outside of Shanghai. I've had to dodge spit bombs from random people on the street more times than I can count. People hang their laundry to dry on trees and power lines down every street.

- This city loves to drink. Or at least they seem to be very competitive about finding drinkers. I happily obliged one establishment last night, during their "All you can drink" promotion. Normally, I avoid buffets because I don't think they are good for the value. But I made the exception this time. I was glad I did. Though, I was a bit worse for wear today.

I am here for another 8 days or so, before I head to Beijing. It's been raining a lot lately, so I have not been out too much. But it's supposed to start getting nice tomorrow. I hope to get out to shoot more photos soon.

Shenzhen Notes

I spent the last 4 days in the border town of Shenzhen, Guangdong Province, China. Shenzhen surprises me, as it is a pretty modern city. Like many cities in China, there has been a significant building boom in the last few decades, and it is clearly evident in this bustling town.

Shenzhen is situated directly across the border from Hong Kong (indeed you can see HK at a distance, if you know what you’re looking at). It is so close, that you can simply take the HK MRT subway into the city. In fact, many do that every day. Thousands of Hong Kong citizens make their home in Shenzhen, and cross the border to go to work. The cost of living in this Chinese border town is significantly lower than it is in Hong Kong. And considering how close it is, its no wonder people commute here every day.

The thing that strikes me as different here in Shenzhen, are the modern high-rise apartment buildings. I was amazed at the visual quality and style that is present. Compared to Hong Kong, the towers here are considerably more modern. Most of the towers look like they were designed recently, to international standards, and to appeal to westerners (of whom there is a very sizable population). Hong Kong towers, on the other hand, all look like they were designed by one person in the 70’s (except maybe some very recent buildings).

Some other notable observations about Shenzhen:

1) There are a LOT of bicycles here. Way more than in Hong Kong. I guess owning a car in China is still a luxury many don’t spend money on. Also, a large amount of the bikes are electric powered. I like that idea.

2) I visited what had to be the largest restaurant I’ve ever seen. It was called “Japan Fusion”, and seemed like it could seat a few thousand people. It was multi layered, beautifully designed, and had a massive (fake) tree and a flowing waterfall running through the middle of the room.

3) When I was in a local pub close to my hotel, a young couple brought their infant in. This club was dark, smoky, and had music so loud you had to yell to be heard a few inches apart. I am not sure why they would bring their baby into a club like this, at 11pm. I suppose to save on babysitting?

4) No one trusts the money. There are money scanners at every register in every store. All notes are run through the scanner to ensure its’ legitimacy. I’ve never encountered any fake money yet, but this common practice assures me I will at some point.

5) Sex sells. Well, that’s true everywhere of course. But it’s clearly evident here. Prostitutes and Money Boys are in abundance in bars, and in unofficial red light areas. Shenzhen is famous for it’s Massages, as well. I am not suggesting that they are inextricably linked, but I think in many cases, they are one and the same.

6) Booze comes in buckets. I was in what was apparently the largest Gay bar in Shenzhen. It was seriously smoky and crowded. When I was there, there was an endless parade of bad karaoke singing, by young guys with an inability to recognize the notes. I give them credit for trying, though. All the music appeared to be from the 80’s and 90’s, and none of it was western, of course.

When drinks were ordered, they typically ordered by table. And the waiters would appear with a large bucket with several bottles and jugs. They would prepare the drinks at the table, and start pouring. Typically, the drinks were Jack Daniels and Coke, and were drunk rapidly. Many of the guys would play a drinking game, using dice. Guess the dice numbers wrong, and you take a drink. I saw one guy proudly wearing a t-shirt emblazoned with the glittery words “I’m Hotist”. I understand the sentiment, but not the spelling. And no, he was not Hot.

I will be in Shanghai for a few weeks now. I hope I will be able to find some hint of work in this city. I anticipate that the business climate will be much better in this busy town.

Farewell, Taipei

I am writing this, as I sit in a Starbucks at the Taipei International Airport. Neither of those two things should be a surprise to my loyal readers (another airport, another Starbucks). It's Tuesday morning, and I am on my way to China today.

I will actually fly back through Hong Kong, but I won't go through immigration and enter the city this time. I am simply transiting through the airport and catching a ferry to the city of Shenzhen. Shenzhen is the closest neighbouring city to Hong Kong, located in the province of Guangdong. Pardon me, if I spelled any of that incorrectly.

The ferry ride is the easiest and simplest way to enter Hong Kong from the airport. I am told it takes about 30 minutes, and the line up for immigration on 'the other side' is short and quick. I am looking forward to the journey. I will be in Shenzhen for 4 days, and then I fly to Shanghai on Saturday. Yay!

I have some final thoughts on Taipei. As with any city, Taipei has it's own flavour and style. I've noticed a few oddities, though. For instance:

1) I was surprised to see that the police cars were BMW's. Maybe not all of them, but the ones I saw were. I guess the financial crises is not as hard here?

2) As is the case in most of Asia, school kids wear uniforms. But here in Taipei, they all seem to wear various shades of blue polyester track suits. That certainly makes them easy to spot, since you can see large waves of blue sweatpants-covered kids walking in packs all over the city.

3) I am used to seeing lots of vendors selling street food in any city. But what makes Taipei unique, is that they all seem to wander around. I saw several food vendors pushing their sausage or squid carts up and down the street, looking for customers. Wouldn't it be simpler to just stay in one place and have the customers follow the scent to the food stand?

Here is a photo of a fellow I photographed here in Taipei, named Damien. Damien is a dance instructor here, and has seen the lens pointed at him a number of times.

Taipei 101 (the entry level course, not the building)

So, here I am in Taipei. This is my second time here, having made the trip last May. I remember that last year, I really liked it here, and spoke highly of it. So, I thought it would be worth visiting again.

To me, Taipei has always been a mixture of what is good about Hong Kong, and what is good about China. You can clearly see the influences of both in this city. Taipei is a fairly wealthy city, largely due to the influence of the hi-tech industry here. Taiwan is world renowned for the quality of their electronics manufacturing sector. With the abundance of construction of tall buildings here, you'd wonder where the signs of a financial crises are.

I have not been here for a full day yet, but I have a few interesting observations. One of the things that struck me as different, compared to Hong Kong, is the proliferation of motorbikes here. There are equally as many motorbikes as there are cars here. And they travel in packs, just like Vietnam. Also, you can see the how the city is encouraging bicycle travel too. There is a large network of bikes that you can rent, all over the city. I've heard of this concept in Amsterdam, but this is the first time I've seen it in Asia. They city has developed a large network of bicycle paths all over the core, to accommodate the encouraged bicycle traffic. It's really a clever (and cheap) system.



I have not succumbed to the pressure of visiting the top of the tallest building - The Taipei 101 - yet. But, who knows, I just may before the visit is over. I am not all that excited about doing that sort of touristy type things, but it's such a nice looking building, and there are not many tall towers near it so the view should be good.

I will be here until Tuesday and I think the weather will be fairly decent. It's supposed to be +27 and sunny both days this weekend. I am looking forward to some nice hot weather.