Since I’ve been living in Beijing for a little while now, my keen and observant eye has been noticing the local customs and habits of the ‘Jingers’. What follows is not an opinion of what is right/wrong – it’s simply an observation. You can judge, but I don’t.
1) Very few people speak English here.
Unlike many other cities in Asia, it’s not easy to find English speaking people in stores or restaurants, or driving taxis. I know the onus is on me to learn Chinese, but I just figured there’d be more English speakers here. I use pantomime a lot. There is much waving of hands and pointing.
2) Everyone spits.
Seriously, everyone. Is there that much excess saliva in the locals here, that they have the need to expel it everywhere/anytime? Men, women, children, taxi drivers, policemen, etc…they ALL spit. I’ve had to dodge a few expectorate projectiles while walking the streets. Not used to that.
3) No one follows traffic rules.
Drivers, and their cars/bikes/trucks, reign supreme here. They don’t pay attention to traffic lights or signs. They just drive. If you’re in their way, they will just honk and warn you they’re coming. If they hit you, it’s your fault, because they warned you. Red lights mean nothing. It doesn’t even slow them down. Crosswalks are simply places on roads where pedestrians are more easily located and hit. If the crosswalk is active (green walk signal), that does not mean you have the right to cross. You still have to yield to all cars, because they will NOT slow down for pedestrians. They will only honk and keep coming. You've been warned.
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Friday, July 30, 2010
Expo 2010
During my short time here in China, I’ve had the opportunity to visit the 2010 Shanghai World Expo. And what a spectacle it is. This event is a showcase for the city of Shanghai, and for China and it’s people. It’s been a 8 year project for the city, and the work they’ve done to prepare for the show is evident all over the sprawling metro area.
Expo 2010 is a massive undertaking, covering over 5 square kilometers along both sides of the Pudong River that bisects the city. It has cost 2x what the Beijing Olympics cost (about $4 billion), and will generate billions in revenue for the city. Almost 200 countries have participated in some way, as have countless corporate sponsors and international organizations (UN, FedEx, Coke, etc).
I visited the site over a period of 5 days, going in the day times, and at night. It’s really impossible to see the whole site in one day, partly because of the oppressive heat, and also because of the sheer size of the place. I was primarily interested in the architecture of the buildings, more than I was with what was inside the pavilions. I enjoyed shooting the buildings at nighttime, when they were lit up nicely, but some buildings looked better in the daylight.
Some of the country pavilions were so popular, that people would line up for over 5 hours for the opportunity to view the interiors. I was not one of those people. I avoided any queue that lasted more than 30 minutes. Most of the smaller pavilions were not that exciting to view inside. I visited Canada’s pavilion, but was fairly disappointed. Many of the countries showed generic video footage of people looking happy to live there, and going about their happy daily existence. Most of the videos were interchangeable, and could be shown in any other pavilion.
Some advice, if you choose to go (it closes Oct 31, 2010):
- Spend most of your time there at night. Arrive in the mid afternoon (3pm or so), and stay until about 11 pm. The crowds will be smaller, and it will be cooler. If you arrive at 9 am, you will need to queue for up to an hour just to get into the park. Arriving later means a smooth sail into the park.
- If you’re keen to see the popular pavilions, be prepared to wait. There are long lines right up until closing. The big ticket countries (Germany, Italy, UK, Spain, Saudi Arabia) won’t accept any new people in line past 9pm. Most pavilions take about 15 minutes to walk through, even if the queue is 5 hours.
- The China Pavilion is the crown jewel of Expo. Only 100,000 people per day are allowed in. If you wish to view the interior, you’ll need to line up about 6 am to obtain a ticket. The tickets will have a visit time (I believe).
Expo 2010 is a massive undertaking, covering over 5 square kilometers along both sides of the Pudong River that bisects the city. It has cost 2x what the Beijing Olympics cost (about $4 billion), and will generate billions in revenue for the city. Almost 200 countries have participated in some way, as have countless corporate sponsors and international organizations (UN, FedEx, Coke, etc).
I visited the site over a period of 5 days, going in the day times, and at night. It’s really impossible to see the whole site in one day, partly because of the oppressive heat, and also because of the sheer size of the place. I was primarily interested in the architecture of the buildings, more than I was with what was inside the pavilions. I enjoyed shooting the buildings at nighttime, when they were lit up nicely, but some buildings looked better in the daylight.
Some of the country pavilions were so popular, that people would line up for over 5 hours for the opportunity to view the interiors. I was not one of those people. I avoided any queue that lasted more than 30 minutes. Most of the smaller pavilions were not that exciting to view inside. I visited Canada’s pavilion, but was fairly disappointed. Many of the countries showed generic video footage of people looking happy to live there, and going about their happy daily existence. Most of the videos were interchangeable, and could be shown in any other pavilion.
Some advice, if you choose to go (it closes Oct 31, 2010):
- Spend most of your time there at night. Arrive in the mid afternoon (3pm or so), and stay until about 11 pm. The crowds will be smaller, and it will be cooler. If you arrive at 9 am, you will need to queue for up to an hour just to get into the park. Arriving later means a smooth sail into the park.
- If you’re keen to see the popular pavilions, be prepared to wait. There are long lines right up until closing. The big ticket countries (Germany, Italy, UK, Spain, Saudi Arabia) won’t accept any new people in line past 9pm. Most pavilions take about 15 minutes to walk through, even if the queue is 5 hours.
- The China Pavilion is the crown jewel of Expo. Only 100,000 people per day are allowed in. If you wish to view the interior, you’ll need to line up about 6 am to obtain a ticket. The tickets will have a visit time (I believe).
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
Moving in...
Part of the process of setting roots in Beijing, is finding a place to live. And I’ve done that. It was not a fun process. I’ve chosen a place in Southeast Beijing, in a district called Pingguo, close to the subway.
The steps involved in finding this apartment were challenging. Every day, for a few weeks, I would scour the housing ads posted in the Beijing English websites. I contacted 5 different agents, but only one replied. The girl that contacted me spoke perfect English, although she believed she was bad. Perhaps the other agents didn’t reply to me, because my price range was too low, or they don’t like dealing with foreigners.
I looked at about 10 places, most of which where awful. I honestly don’t understand how people can live in such filth. All of the apartment owners promised to have the place cleaned if I chose to lease their property. After seeing several bad places, I told the agent that I only wanted to see clean places. It was clear though, that she and I have differing opinions on the definition of the word ‘clean’.
Once I finally selected an apartment, the leasing process was the next challenge. Beijing custom requires that tenants pay every 3 months, and pay a 1 month deposit. So, that’s 4 months up front. And I had to pay in cash for the first payment, so I arrived with a wad of cash that looked like I robbed a bank. Since the largest note in China is the 100 yuan note, and the rent was in the thousands, you can imagine how big the stack was for 4 months rent. Obtaining the money from the ATM seemed risky, with a long line up waiting for me to stuff the hundreds of notes into an envelope.
I am slowly learning the small details of renting an apartment. Today, my power went out. I found out that I had to pay for my electricity in advance using a smart card the Agent gave me, at a local convenience store. Once the smart card was reloaded, I inserted it into the electric meter, and flipped the breaker and my power was back on. How can I know this? Also, I have to pay for my Internet service for a full year, in advance. And even then, the Government protects me from ‘dangerous sites’ like youtube and facebook. Lucky me.
There is a nice park, just outside my building. This is still pretty rare in Beijing, where land is valuable for its’ 17 million people. Most apartments look out over other buildings and dirty streets, so it’s nice to have some greenery to look at out my window. There is a large mall, and a Carrefour a few minutes walk away, and dozens of restaurants and shops all over the neighborhood. I feel like an oddity here, though. I was told by the Agent that the buildings and neighborhood were popular with foreigners, but I’ve really only seen a few westerners around.
The steps involved in finding this apartment were challenging. Every day, for a few weeks, I would scour the housing ads posted in the Beijing English websites. I contacted 5 different agents, but only one replied. The girl that contacted me spoke perfect English, although she believed she was bad. Perhaps the other agents didn’t reply to me, because my price range was too low, or they don’t like dealing with foreigners.
I looked at about 10 places, most of which where awful. I honestly don’t understand how people can live in such filth. All of the apartment owners promised to have the place cleaned if I chose to lease their property. After seeing several bad places, I told the agent that I only wanted to see clean places. It was clear though, that she and I have differing opinions on the definition of the word ‘clean’.
Once I finally selected an apartment, the leasing process was the next challenge. Beijing custom requires that tenants pay every 3 months, and pay a 1 month deposit. So, that’s 4 months up front. And I had to pay in cash for the first payment, so I arrived with a wad of cash that looked like I robbed a bank. Since the largest note in China is the 100 yuan note, and the rent was in the thousands, you can imagine how big the stack was for 4 months rent. Obtaining the money from the ATM seemed risky, with a long line up waiting for me to stuff the hundreds of notes into an envelope.
I am slowly learning the small details of renting an apartment. Today, my power went out. I found out that I had to pay for my electricity in advance using a smart card the Agent gave me, at a local convenience store. Once the smart card was reloaded, I inserted it into the electric meter, and flipped the breaker and my power was back on. How can I know this? Also, I have to pay for my Internet service for a full year, in advance. And even then, the Government protects me from ‘dangerous sites’ like youtube and facebook. Lucky me.
There is a nice park, just outside my building. This is still pretty rare in Beijing, where land is valuable for its’ 17 million people. Most apartments look out over other buildings and dirty streets, so it’s nice to have some greenery to look at out my window. There is a large mall, and a Carrefour a few minutes walk away, and dozens of restaurants and shops all over the neighborhood. I feel like an oddity here, though. I was told by the Agent that the buildings and neighborhood were popular with foreigners, but I’ve really only seen a few westerners around.
Saturday, July 24, 2010
I'm back, finally.
I can write again!
It’s been too long. And I have so much to say.
I am now living in Beijing, China.
Yes, really, China.
And because it’s China, my ability to access websites that I typically use every day (like Facebook, Youtube, this blog, etc) are blocked by government censors. Even some sites that are completely innocent are blocked for some reason – like ‘digital-photography-school.com’ of all things. So, I have not been able to write about all my experiences in China, until now. I’ve found that there is a back-door access method that the majority of Chinese people use to view sites that are forbidden. That is why/how you’re reading my words now.
So, here I am in China. Again.
But this time it’s different. This time, I’ve taken steps that will anchor me here longer than all the previous times. I’ve taken a job, teaching photography at Beijing Center of Photography. And I’ve leased an apartment for a full year (the standard term here). And I’ve obtained a business Visa, so I can legally stay and work (never done that before).
When I think back almost 2 years ago, Beijing was not even something I had considered. But, in those 2 years, I’ve visited this city a few times, and quite like it. Though I know it will take some adjusting. I know I will miss Thailand, and the many friends I have there. And the same goes for Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. I am about as far from those places as I can be, and won’t have too many chances to visit them for a while.
I have a lot to do here in Beijing over the coming months. First, I need to ensure I make enough money to support myself (the teaching gig is part time). Second, I need to start learning some Mandarin, fast. And I want to get to know the city better. And now that I have access to my blog again, I need to get back to writing more often.
It’s been too long. And I have so much to say.
I am now living in Beijing, China.
Yes, really, China.
And because it’s China, my ability to access websites that I typically use every day (like Facebook, Youtube, this blog, etc) are blocked by government censors. Even some sites that are completely innocent are blocked for some reason – like ‘digital-photography-school.com’ of all things. So, I have not been able to write about all my experiences in China, until now. I’ve found that there is a back-door access method that the majority of Chinese people use to view sites that are forbidden. That is why/how you’re reading my words now.
So, here I am in China. Again.
But this time it’s different. This time, I’ve taken steps that will anchor me here longer than all the previous times. I’ve taken a job, teaching photography at Beijing Center of Photography. And I’ve leased an apartment for a full year (the standard term here). And I’ve obtained a business Visa, so I can legally stay and work (never done that before).
When I think back almost 2 years ago, Beijing was not even something I had considered. But, in those 2 years, I’ve visited this city a few times, and quite like it. Though I know it will take some adjusting. I know I will miss Thailand, and the many friends I have there. And the same goes for Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. I am about as far from those places as I can be, and won’t have too many chances to visit them for a while.
I have a lot to do here in Beijing over the coming months. First, I need to ensure I make enough money to support myself (the teaching gig is part time). Second, I need to start learning some Mandarin, fast. And I want to get to know the city better. And now that I have access to my blog again, I need to get back to writing more often.
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Heading North
Today was a sad day. A number of circumstances have pushed me into making a decision to leave my beloved Bangkok. It was not an easy decision to make, either. I've spent a little more than 8 months living in Bangkok, and it's been wonderful.
For those of you that know me well, you will know that I've struggled to get a decent job in Thailand, and this contributed to my departure. For about a month or so, i began working on a new magazine that was to be published and distributed throughout SE Asia, but after the protests rocked Bangkok in April and May, the investor pulled out of the project and I was out of work again. That was short lived.
The political protests have destroyed much of Bangkok, with some popular shopping malls playing victim to anti-government forces. The largest mall in Bangkok was completely destroyed due to senseless arsonists. What does a shopping mall have to do with politics? Countless billions of baht have been lost due to the crisis. It may take years for the economy to recover. So many foreign Governments (including mine) warned their citizens to stay away. Only recently, have they lifted their travel advisories.
In the period since my short-term job ended, I've been seeking work all over Asia (including Thailand). I've sent applications to postings in Singapore, Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Beijing. The only responses I've had at all are in China. So I've made the decision to chase them down, and see if I can get a job out of one of them. So I am now in Hong Kong again, in order to get a Visa for China. I will be in Shanghai and Beijing later in June.
Leaving Bangkok was a difficult thing to do, but i think it is the smart thing to do. I will miss the many friends that I've met while there. Some more than others. My departure was sudden, so i didn't really get a chance to say goodbye in a proper way. But I hope to return soon, and pick up the friendships where we left off. And really, China is only a few countries away. I will continue to seek work in SE asia every day (especially Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore), so who knows.
For those of you that know me well, you will know that I've struggled to get a decent job in Thailand, and this contributed to my departure. For about a month or so, i began working on a new magazine that was to be published and distributed throughout SE Asia, but after the protests rocked Bangkok in April and May, the investor pulled out of the project and I was out of work again. That was short lived.
The political protests have destroyed much of Bangkok, with some popular shopping malls playing victim to anti-government forces. The largest mall in Bangkok was completely destroyed due to senseless arsonists. What does a shopping mall have to do with politics? Countless billions of baht have been lost due to the crisis. It may take years for the economy to recover. So many foreign Governments (including mine) warned their citizens to stay away. Only recently, have they lifted their travel advisories.
In the period since my short-term job ended, I've been seeking work all over Asia (including Thailand). I've sent applications to postings in Singapore, Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Beijing. The only responses I've had at all are in China. So I've made the decision to chase them down, and see if I can get a job out of one of them. So I am now in Hong Kong again, in order to get a Visa for China. I will be in Shanghai and Beijing later in June.
Leaving Bangkok was a difficult thing to do, but i think it is the smart thing to do. I will miss the many friends that I've met while there. Some more than others. My departure was sudden, so i didn't really get a chance to say goodbye in a proper way. But I hope to return soon, and pick up the friendships where we left off. And really, China is only a few countries away. I will continue to seek work in SE asia every day (especially Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore), so who knows.
Thursday, April 15, 2010
Wet, wet, wet
It's Songkran here in Thailand. That's Thai New Years for all my non-Thai readers. And it's unlike any other New Years festival I am familiar with. Actually, here in Thailand, locals celebrate 3 different New Years. Officially, Thailand observes the Western calendar year, so the Dec 31/Jan 01 event happens here as well. And considering the large Chinese influence in Thailand, the Lunar New Years is also observed. I think they got it right here: 3 New Years in the span of 4 month can't be too bad.
What makes the Thai New Years unique, is that unlike other New Years, the participants act out in a manner that can only be described as chaotic. In Western culture, New Years is all about observing the changing of the year and being with the one you love. In Chinese culture, it's all about family. Spending time with relatives is paramount to the Lunar New Year. But in Thailand, it's an all-out street war waged with water and white paste.
Traditionally, the Thai New Year observes some Buddhist ceremonies, cleansing the statues with water. The 'blessed' water would then be collected, as run-off from the cleaning, and gently poured over the shoulders of the community elders for good luck. This has evolved considerably into an massive pouring of water on everyone, from every conceivable vessel. You can't walk down the street during Songkran without being soaked from head to toe with water. The fact that Songkran coincides with the hottest month of the year in Thailand is a benefit (temps rise to +40 in April).
When I first visited Thailand during Songkran, back in 2005, I was not prepared at all. I had no idea what was happening, and how to manage the experience. I remember that I hired a taxi and toured the main areas around my hotel, and stared in wide-eyed amazement at what I was seeing. Thousands of people would line the streets with buckets and water guns, throwing water at anyone that would pass by. This year, as a resident, I've decided to get involved fully. So, I bought a massive 2 litre water gun with pump-action, and a waterproof camera (I have take photos, right?).
I ventured out onto Silom Road, and made my way up the street into the crowd, and was soaking wet within minutes. The water dousing is all in good fun, and not violent in any way. People shoot water in a playful way, and fully expect to be shot at in return. Every shot of water is an invitation to shoot back. There is an etiquette for water shooting too. It's OK to shoot at Elders, but you shoot at their hands in respect. With others, it's open season! You try not to aim for the face, but anywhere else is fine.
Some people don't bother with the water at all. Some prefer to apply a white paste on the face or bodies of passers by. This is symbolic of a Buddhist blessing. It's applied gently, and it's polite to say "thank you" to the applier, since it is meant as a blessing.
This year's celebrations have been reduced, largely due to the political protests that have been going on for the past several months. Many foreign tourists who would normally flock to Thailand during Songkran are absent this year, for fear of being harmed by protesters. It's not as bad as the media is reporting, and most of the protesting has disappeared during New Years. Overall, it's been a truly enjoyable, and wet week.
Suk San Pee Mai!
What makes the Thai New Years unique, is that unlike other New Years, the participants act out in a manner that can only be described as chaotic. In Western culture, New Years is all about observing the changing of the year and being with the one you love. In Chinese culture, it's all about family. Spending time with relatives is paramount to the Lunar New Year. But in Thailand, it's an all-out street war waged with water and white paste.
Traditionally, the Thai New Year observes some Buddhist ceremonies, cleansing the statues with water. The 'blessed' water would then be collected, as run-off from the cleaning, and gently poured over the shoulders of the community elders for good luck. This has evolved considerably into an massive pouring of water on everyone, from every conceivable vessel. You can't walk down the street during Songkran without being soaked from head to toe with water. The fact that Songkran coincides with the hottest month of the year in Thailand is a benefit (temps rise to +40 in April).
When I first visited Thailand during Songkran, back in 2005, I was not prepared at all. I had no idea what was happening, and how to manage the experience. I remember that I hired a taxi and toured the main areas around my hotel, and stared in wide-eyed amazement at what I was seeing. Thousands of people would line the streets with buckets and water guns, throwing water at anyone that would pass by. This year, as a resident, I've decided to get involved fully. So, I bought a massive 2 litre water gun with pump-action, and a waterproof camera (I have take photos, right?).
I ventured out onto Silom Road, and made my way up the street into the crowd, and was soaking wet within minutes. The water dousing is all in good fun, and not violent in any way. People shoot water in a playful way, and fully expect to be shot at in return. Every shot of water is an invitation to shoot back. There is an etiquette for water shooting too. It's OK to shoot at Elders, but you shoot at their hands in respect. With others, it's open season! You try not to aim for the face, but anywhere else is fine.
Some people don't bother with the water at all. Some prefer to apply a white paste on the face or bodies of passers by. This is symbolic of a Buddhist blessing. It's applied gently, and it's polite to say "thank you" to the applier, since it is meant as a blessing.
This year's celebrations have been reduced, largely due to the political protests that have been going on for the past several months. Many foreign tourists who would normally flock to Thailand during Songkran are absent this year, for fear of being harmed by protesters. It's not as bad as the media is reporting, and most of the protesting has disappeared during New Years. Overall, it's been a truly enjoyable, and wet week.
Suk San Pee Mai!
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Sydneysiding
So, I am back in Sydney. Who knew? When I was here in Dec 08, I thought it may be my only trip down under. But things change, and here I am again. Let me explain...
I've had a few months of steadily growing work and networking while in Bangkok. I've met some wonderful people, who've given me some opportunities to produce some great work. Particularly, I met the people who produce the largest circuit parties in Asia (for my straight readers, do a wiki search for "Circuit Parties" to catch up). I was given the chance to attend and shoot during a series of parties in Koh Samui, Thailand. It was a great time, and the pictures were amazing. I am not much of a party goer myself, but I know a good photo op, when I see it.
The producers then asked me to shoot the guys for their next party coming up in April. It was a great experience, since I got to work with some great professional models. All of the advertising for gCircuit's next party includes photos shot by me. It was an unpaid job, but I am listed as a sponsor, and may get more work from it later on.
The opportunity to shoot at the parties in Sydney during Mardi Gras then came up, and it was a chance I couldn't turn down. I managed to obtain a Media Pass that will allow me to shoot the parade from street level, and gain access to the main circuit parties as well. I will be shooting and writing for Spice magazine from Bangkok, and for Paul Marin Productions (lighting/laser producer). I also hope to gather a large number of photos that will allow me to do an exhibition afterward.
I am looking forward to spending the next few weeks here in Sydney. It's summer, and it's beautiful out. Mardi Gras is an event I've considered going to for years, but it's always been so far away. Now, it's much closer to where I live so here I am.
I've had a few months of steadily growing work and networking while in Bangkok. I've met some wonderful people, who've given me some opportunities to produce some great work. Particularly, I met the people who produce the largest circuit parties in Asia (for my straight readers, do a wiki search for "Circuit Parties" to catch up). I was given the chance to attend and shoot during a series of parties in Koh Samui, Thailand. It was a great time, and the pictures were amazing. I am not much of a party goer myself, but I know a good photo op, when I see it.
The producers then asked me to shoot the guys for their next party coming up in April. It was a great experience, since I got to work with some great professional models. All of the advertising for gCircuit's next party includes photos shot by me. It was an unpaid job, but I am listed as a sponsor, and may get more work from it later on. The opportunity to shoot at the parties in Sydney during Mardi Gras then came up, and it was a chance I couldn't turn down. I managed to obtain a Media Pass that will allow me to shoot the parade from street level, and gain access to the main circuit parties as well. I will be shooting and writing for Spice magazine from Bangkok, and for Paul Marin Productions (lighting/laser producer). I also hope to gather a large number of photos that will allow me to do an exhibition afterward.
I am looking forward to spending the next few weeks here in Sydney. It's summer, and it's beautiful out. Mardi Gras is an event I've considered going to for years, but it's always been so far away. Now, it's much closer to where I live so here I am.
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